Winter has returned to western Montana, and we snow-lovers are thrilled. To many of us, to wake up to 6" of new, fluffy snow means one thing on a fine weekend day: we have to get out into it. My husband and I donned our layers and, armed with chocolate, water, a thermos of tea, and several eggy-avocado-y burritos, headed up to the Rattlesnake Recreation Area, where the parking lot was almost full and the snow was still falling. Two weeks ago the main trail was a sheet of ice, only ideal if one's goal was broken bones or bruises . . . but a foot of snow later, all is transformed.