February in the Bitterroot.

Nearly a month ago, Bitterroot Bill (the yellow-bellied marmot, cousin to groundhog Punxsutawney Phil) predicted the imminence of spring--or, more accurately, he didn't show himself at all on the overcast Groundhog Day at the Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge. That may be hard to believe with all the winter storm warnings we have been getting, but we can always hope.

© Sara J. Call 2012

There's quite a bit less snow in the Bitterroot Valley, and quite a bit more sun. I drive out there every so often to get out from under the grey skies that have been frequenting Missoula Valley as of late. Even when the sky is overcast in the Bitterroot, it will open up to let rays of sun burst through, which is always wonderful. Last week, I drove down through Stevensville and took a loop through the Lee Metcalf Refuge to catch those rays of sunlight. There's a surprising amount of bird-watching to be had along the ponds, even now. Before long, I'm sure one will be able to spot a muskrat or two patrolling the thawing waterways.

© Sara J. Call 2012

Briefly, some interesting history about Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge: it was founded in 1963 and renamed to 'Lee Metcalf' in 1978 in honor of the late senator that helped establish conservation projects across the state of Montana. The refuge is a total of 2,800 acres. Natural trails wind through 160 acres of ponds, sloughs, and river bottoms. While it predominately caters to providing habitat for migratory birds, the refuge also contains plenty of other creatures: beavers, muskrats, osprey, and yellow-bellied marmots, to name a few. Fish are also protected residents. The habitat is actively managed, meaning that people control water levels using siphons and pumps; provide weed control using fire, mechanical means, and sometimes cattle; and allow sportsman to come birding during hunting season. All of the management techniques are necessary to help maintain healthy wetlands and riparian areas in the refuge, where the riparian zones are human-enhanced and dependent on periodic drawdowns.


The Bitterroot Range provides a wondrous backdrop to the wetlands. I saw dozens of ducks (mallards and others) and Canada geese, and watched an American coot dabbling near the shoreline, tipping forward and bobbing with tail pointing skyward for a few moments before settling back upright on the water to swallow whatever he had found to eat. 

© Sara J. Call 2012

© USFWS Mountain Prairie

A great blue heron stood reflected in a small pond as the sun set, and the clouds were splashed with an amazing array of pink and purple that we rarely see in Missoula skies. Before I could document the moment in a photo, the heron hunched his lanky frame and lifted away into the dusk, scattering droplets of water like beads.

 In the coming months, the red-winged and yellow-headed blackbirds will return, which is my favorite time of spring. You can definitely bet on good birdwatching at Lee Metcalf NWR, year-round. 


See our spring post on the birds of Lee Metcalf from last year here.

REFERENCES:
"Get Ready For Spring" - NBC Montana, 2 Feb 2012
"Lee Metcalf Refuge Revitalizes Pond with Fire, Cattle" - 4 Nov 2011
Montana Birding Trail - Lee Metcalf NWR
USFWS Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge website
Wikipedia entry

The Adel Mountains: Volcanic Pile

With over forty individually-named but unofficially delineated mountain ranges, Montana (from the Spanish word for mountain, montaña) is aptly named. The Rocky Mountain front cleaves down the northwestern portion of Montana, paralleling the Bitterroot, Flathead, Swan, Salish, and Mission Mountain ranges, while in the southwestern part of the state, the ranges are less of linear striations than variegated and somewhat disjointed bands of ridges jutting up like islands in the prairie.

http://images.summitpost.org/original/444328.jpg

Everyone in Montana, it would seem, recognizes the impressive Crazy Mountains; recreationalists love them for their plentiful alpine lakes, good fishing, and beautiful camping opportunities, and ranchers love them for the sweet grass they tower over. But nearby, a less known mountain range sits sentinel over a volcanic pile to the northwest.

2012 © Sara J. Call

If you have ever driven on I-15 from Great Falls to Helena (or vice versa), you may remember that you pass a sign identifying the Big Belt Mountains along the highway just past Cascade. The peaks rise impressively above, and if you continue on the highway , you will drop into a section of the Missouri River canyon to the northwest of the larger peaks. The interstate crosses the river, where log cabins have been built alongside the slow moving river. You may see a historic landmark sign that tells the story of the St. Peter’s Mission, made especially famous by Mary Fields, an emancipated slave who came to live with her former owner’s daughter, a nun that had helped establish the Mission. Mary’s strength and size came in handy in the repair of the mission’s dilapidated buildings, and she became the construction foreman; but when one of the workman who resented her struck her and reached for his pistol, she fired her six-shooter at him and was asked to leave the Mission. In 1895 when she was 60 years old, she was hired as a U.S. mail coach driver in Cascade and became known as the legendary Stagecoach Mary.

http://www.blackcowboys.com/maryfields.htm

 Continuing past St. Peter’s Mission, the interstate meanders through dark columnar igneous rock. While this range is adjacent to the Big Belt Mountain range, it is a separate range referred to as the Adel Mountains Volcanic Field.
Both the Little and the Big Belt mountains are not necessarily impressive in the same ways as other more popular mountain ranges in Montana; they are tall, and therefore a large portion of the peaks are above timberline, but they are also not heavily forested in general and are notably more rounded. There is not exceptionally good fishing or camping available, and only one part of the mountain range, the Gates of the Mountains, is designated wilderness. The area is forest service land, and popular for off-roading and horse-packing. The adjoining Adel Mountains (eroded to be no longer a recognizable volcanic cone) provide even less recreational opportunity, being a 40 mile long by 20 mile wide swath of almost vertical volcanic rock; but they possess a fascinating and uncommon geologic history.

Rod Benson © http://formontana.net/hardy.html

http://formontana.net/hardy.html

More than a billion years ago, two continental plates collided and formed what we call the Great Falls Tectonic Zone, a crustal weakness that lead to the volcanic creation of a series of mountains and buttes in the area and, most recently (around 75 million years ago), allowed magma to well up and create the Adel Mountains over top the surrounding sedimentary rock.

The Adel Mountain Volcanic Field is made of a rare type of intrusive igneous rock known as shonkinite, which is found only in Montana, British Columbia, Ontario, and the Indonesian island of Timor. It’s similar to basalt but more brittle, and principally contains augite and a type of feldspar.

From the interstate, you can see multiple dikes that radiate from the center of the formation zone; from within the canyon, the dikes are dark, vertical ridges (hint: look left at milepost 247 and right at milepost 250). These dikes often were the path magma followed to form laccoliths, which are intrusions of magma between layers of sedimentary rock that forced upper strata of rock upwards to form domes or buttes. Shaw Butte, Cascade Butte, and Square Butte were all formed in this way, and Square Butte has eroded enough to expose the actual laccolith volcanic formation within.

But you don’t need to be a historian or geologist to appreciate the Adel Mountains Volcanic Field. When I last drove through the area, the fresh layers of snow draped over the dark rock and sparkled like fish scales, and the wind picked up streams of shimmering snow and poured it over the edges of the cliffs like waterfalls. The snow crystals whirled around in the canyon and crashed against the raised road bed in the sunlight like a cold, white ocean wave, then snaked across the lanes of highway until dissipating like mist. It’s a magical area.



References:
http://www.bigskyfishing.com/Mountain-Fishing/belt_mountains.htm

http://www.cascademontana.com/mary.htm

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:8XO1-TvJs0QJ:mathscience.mt.gov/files/RoadSignPDF/Adel.pdf+&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESh0lDMOJy2JJefzas4lHUc_H6eBTfZ-uxytmS7DKGQz3vl5QAAaB2u55h7R1xw2yx5uhUgLNMoSFR9hyD30XKALNUZLnKLEKzLTuigKlFTVh5d_tmO7fnp_0zY-4lukg1HmvlAc&sig=AHIEtbRRSLpC-pYQzaH3-To3SIbwOjZBIA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adel_Mountains_Volcanic_Field

http://visitmt.com/categories/moreinfo.asp?SiteID=1&IDRRecordID=15520

Shonkinite

http://www.troutfishinglodgingmontana.com/gpage8.html



Blue Mountain Recreation Area

Last week in Missoula was filled with reasonable temps and lots of sunshine with, so I decided to seize the last nice day of fall and go to Blue Mountain for a day hike. Looking back over the wind, snow, sleet, and rain from the past week, it shows how fast seasons change here in Montana. 

Despite the temperatures in the mid-40s the sunshine really made this hike special - the view across the Missoula Valley was crystal clear. The trails were rather busy due in some part due to Veterans Day, although I think the last chance for a dry sunny day played a big part in the number of Missoulians out and about. Once I trekked further in, the crowds dissipated, bird songs audibly grew in number, and the peacefulness of the forest emerged. 

The few times I tried to catch a family of chirping birds in my view finder, the small birds kept hopping and flying away. I put away my camera and decided to just watch and listen quietly; my mental note is just as vivid in my senses as a photograph in my camera. Once satisfied with watching the fleeting birds, I kept on the path and saw a few folks in bright vests in a field off in the distance. They were working on some sort of explosives project, of which I am not sure, but it did seem strange that in the midst this beautiful public space. Later down the trail a few signs directed me to stay on the path in the marked area as there were unexploded materials in the field. This made me a little uneasy, even though I was not straying from the path, so I changed directions at the next path I found. 

I headed down closer to the river and through a more densely wooded terrain. A crow was calling loudly and it felt as if he were following my path by hopping from tree to tree as I moved forward. Not long after, the crow swooped out of the tree overhead and made a complete circle over my location of the path; I took this as a good omen for my walk. 

Not long after the crow incident, I turned back toward the parking area. The walk lasted for well over an hour, but could have easily continued for longer given time. There are plenty of trails to explore, specimens to examine, and sights to take in. 

To find Blue Mountain, head south from Missoula on Highway 93 towards Hamilton. Not long after crossing the river, there is a light at the intersection of hwy. 93 and Blue Mountain Rd., where you will take a right hand turn. Follow Blue Mountain road for a couple of minutes and after a tight turn left, you will see a parking area straight ahead and slightly to the left. Once you park your car there are many trails to choose from!

To find out more information on the recreation area at Blue Mountain please visit the All Missoula website. 

And, for more information on bird species and field notes from Blue Mountain please visit the Montana Birding and Nature Trail site.

Philipsburg Area

 Not much more than an hour outside of Missoula, you can escape to a little morsel of historical significance known as Philipsburg. It’s not too far along I-90 E, maybe 50 miles, after you wind past the forested areas of Beavertail and Bearmouth and emerge into a wide (and golden!) valley, that you turn off the interstate at Drummond and follow MT-1 S up the valley to the small town of less than a thousand.

At this time of year, the drive from Missoula to Drummond is spectacular with all the vibrant autumn colors--red maples, yellow larch, golden aspens--but the drive from Drummond to Philipsburg along the Pintar Scenic Route is phenomenal. I love slowing down and inspecting the ranches, looking at resting horses, wandering cattle, and ranchers leaning against the fence posts.

Philipsburg isn’t that big, but don’t let that deceive you into thinking that you could see it all from one place. I stayed two days and a night, and plan on going back because I didn’t see nearly everything that I wanted to (if you’re looking for a place to stay, I would recommend The Broadway Inn).

In town, there are numerous places to eat (Doe Brothers has stellar burgers and sweet potato fries) and a decidedly amazing candy store. The Sweet Palace is overwhelming! The fudge flavors are decadent and the truffles--oh, the truffles--are worth every bite. If you happen to get there when they are packaging salt water taffies and one of the taffies escapes unwrapped, they will give you it as a sample, and you will be struck with an inexplicable desire to buy more. Just a warning.

We went up to the cemetery on the hill and sought out the oldest headstones to get a sense of the beginnings of the city. There were so many sad stories contained in the collection of grave markings, stories of children lost over the years and all at once, fathers and mothers that died young or survived decades beyond their spouses and children, singular spouses left buried in the ground alone after their partners must have packed up all they had left and moved away.

We went on a wet weekend, but after the rain let up a little, we drove the narrow dirt road to Granite ghost town. It’s a road you’ll want a high clearance, 4WD vehicle for, but it’s worthwhile heading up there.
 

Photo courtesy of Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks | http://visitmt.com/pictures/big/5179h.jpg

It’s difficult to believe that 3,000 people once lived where a few ruins now cling to the mountainside. We wandered along the Granite Ghost Walk and sought out foundations, most of which were broken up by tree roots and frost weathering. It’s amazing to think that the buildings in this area were built by hand, from the huge stones set in near-perfect walls to brick arches to giant steel towers. It’s amazing to think that the trees and vegetation have filled in so much in the past hundred and some years.
 

Photo courtesy of Sara Call



  The mine’s remaining structure is possibly the most impressive part of the area. It is massive, and only partially crumbling. Mica-studded granite sparkled throughout the rubble, brightened by the recent drizzle. The view from the mine’s perch was beautiful. 

Photos courtesy of Sara Call

On our second day of exploring, we made an appointment with a volunteer at the Granite County Museum and Cultural Center. Esther, a spunky older lady with lots of knowledge and hard work behind her, chatted with us but didn’t prepare us for how much we would get for our $3 admission fee. The upstairs portion of the exhibit included models, clothing, saddles, and cattle brands from way back to the 1870’s. Photos and descriptions of local ghost towns lined the walls, and an extensive mineral and rock collection filled an entire corner of a room.

We made our way downstairs, and there sat all sorts of mining equipment and buildings models--the original sign from the general store, an assay office model, a miner’s cabin, and a massive lift (the original elevator) and hydraulic engine. The absolute most incredible part of the museum was the walk-in replica of a silver mine shaft, built by volunteers. It’s a wonderful piece of work.

There are a few other ghost towns around Philipsburg that you can also visit--Kirkville and Garnet, for example--and plenty of recreational activities to engage in around the area. Over the pass to the southeast is Georgetown Lake, and if you continue down MT-1 S you’ll come into Anaconda, another town of significance in our state’s history of mining.

Of course, there’s also Drummond, which is a character-filled town in and of itself... If you’re there on a Saturday, check out the Used Cow Lot!



Sources and links:
http://visitmt.com/categories/moreinfo.asp?IDRRecordID=6737&siteid=1
http://philipsburgmt.com/museum
http://www.drummondmontana.com/SurroundingArea.html

Garnet Mountain

Garnet Mountain

Last weekend I had the pleasure of meeting my brother in Bozeman for a backpacking adventure! Our destination was the Garnet Mountain Fire Lookout that is just 20 minutes south of Bozeman. The day before our trek a storm had rolled through Gallatin County and dusted the mountain tops with snow. The weather on our hike up was pleasant, in the mid-50s and only semi-cloudy. The breaks from the sun were welcomed and we cheered with cool breezes that graced our hard working bodies. The hike itself is a mere 4 miles - however you gain nearly 3,000 feet over the course of the hike.

We were cautious of bears, toting bells and bear spray, but we did not see any large wildlife during our hike. We spotted lots of Elk tracks in the mud and saw a few chipmunks scurry off the trail into the brush. We ran into snow the last quarter mile that was up to 6 inches deep in some spots. The snow made it much easier to spot animal tracks, such as some Prairie Chicken tracks, Fox tracks, and more Elk tracks.

The last stretch to the top was by far the steepest, and in the snow field a few hundred feet from the fire lookout we spotted a bunch of fox tracks zigzagging and then turned into circles. We laughed at the sight of the pattern of the tracks and wondered what the little fox had been up to, perhaps chasing his tail or more likely following a bunny, whose tracks we also found not far from the fox tracks.

The fire lookout itself was very cozy and offered unparalleled views of the Gallatin Canyon and beyond. The sunset was incredible; bright pinks, golden yellows, and blazing orange contrasted against the deep blue and bounced off scattered clouds. The views from the Lookout were well worth the aches and pains of the hike! Luckily we were not socked in with clouds or fog so we were able to take in the stars and wildly bright moon. Thanks to the snow reflecting so much of the moonlight, we were able to turn off our lantern and sit by the fire to enjoy the endless beauty below us. After inhaling a delicious fajita dinner, we were all more than ready to cozy up in our sleeping bags and call it a night.

We only stayed one night, so after waking up, eating breakfast, and cleaning up the cabin, we headed back down. It was a beautiful fall morning, full of crisp air and chirping birds. Chickadee calls were the most prevalent, however that is the bird call I know the best, so it could have been that my ear was only tuned into the Chickadees. The trek down was difficult, but beautiful and much faster than going uphill. Yet again we didn’t spot any wildlife, outside a few squirrels. This hike and Fire Lookout was amazing and will definitely be something I will do again. If you are looking for a great weekend getaway and a challenge, I would highly recommend Garnet Mountain Fire Lookout! The only thing I would do differently next time is pack along a field guide (I forgot mine at home on the coffee table, doh!)

Garnet Mountain Fire Lookout MT

Ninepipes National Wildlife Refuge

In the middle of September I had the chance to attend the Crown of the Continent Roundtable in Polson, and on my drive back to Missoula I thought I would take the opportunity to stop at the Ninepipes National Wildlife Refuge, just south of Ronan. I had driven past Ninepipes many times, but I always had somewhere to be, so it just never happened.  

Ninepipes was created in 1921 as a refuge for native birds.. The refuge is located within the Flathead Reservation, but is maintained by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife department. According to the Fish and wildlife website, Ninepipes is home to avian species such as red-necked grebes, song sparrows, yellow headed and red winged blackbirds, ring necked pheasants, American bitterns, sora rails, osprey, great blue herons and double crested cormorants. Non-avian species such as muskrat, striped skunk, mink, badgers, field mice, meadow voles, porcupines, and the occasional grizzly bear call Ninepipes home.

There are no developed areas of the refuge, so on my visit I drove down a small an unassuming dirt road, just off of highway 93, to a dead end, parked my car, and found a walkway lined with informative signs. The path, while paved, showed signs of deterioration and plants were eager to root themselves in the cement cracks. The wide expanse of the refuge was beautiful, especially with the Mission Mountains looming to the east. Grasses swayed in the wind, duck calls rang across the water, and I was greeted with a slight fall sprinkling of rain. Despite being less than a mile from highway 93, civilization felt a world away. Since this stop was on a whim, I lacked binoculars and a bird book. I do recall seeing a few Mallard ducks and even a heron off in the distance, but there were many birds  than I can identify. 


If you find yourself on highway 93 with a few minutes to spare, I highly recommend stopping and enjoying the scenery yourself!

Winter Weeds and Nature Walks

While perusing the Montana Natural History Center shelves a few days ago, Allison and I found a spectacular book all about the plants of Montana in the winter. Let the weather gods know that this does not mean we were hoping for the winter weather to come as of yet; but the plants are dying back and are sometimes difficult to identify at this point. 

Well, my curiosity got the best of me, and I checked the book out to take on a self-guided nature walk through Greenough Park. 

Here's what I found:

Dock (Rumex crispus)

 "You can recognize Dock by its dried, three-winged, heart-shaped sepals, which hang in dense umbrella-like clusters from the stems...As is characteristic of the Buckwheat family, Dock has wraparound leaf scars." (p. 70)
Curly Dock is a beautiful dark reddish-brown right now, and even though it's not a particularly pretty weed (and definitely not a desirable one--its seeds are viable for upwards of 50 years!), it catches afternoon light wonderfully in its dry, lacy sepal skeletons.

~

Motherwort (Leonurus Cardiaca)

 "This is a tall perennial which grows up to four and a half feet. The calyx-tubes [fused sepal structures] are arranged in whorls around the square stem, and they are fiercely toothed....Motherwort was introduced from Asia as a home remedy and has now escaped to waste places, gardens, clearings, and roadsides." (p. 146)
Motherwort is in the mint family, and is known for it's use by midwives as well as for use to pacify the nervous system. At this time of year, the contrast of green stem to red-brown calyx-tubes is nice to look at, but beware--the calyxes are sharp!

~

Yellow Rocket (Barbarea vulgaris)

"The fruits [of Yellow Rocket] are not very sturdy, so in winter you will mainly find the silvery membranes that are left after the fruit has split apart...It is usually quite bushy...Yellow Rocket is a common biennial growing in fields and along roadsides." (p. 90)
The yellow flowers of this member of the mustard family (its also known as winter cress) are, during the summer, quite eye-catching. The winter stalk is less bold, but its feathery remnants are delicately splendid. 

~

Now, here's a pitch: The Montana Natural History Center's library is full of books that are helpful, beautiful, educational, lyrical, and other good things, and I'm sure that you can find something you'll enjoy no matter your interests! (see more about the library here) 

I hope you're noticing things out in the world as the seasons change and we ease deeper into autumn. It's a lovely time of year.


Sources:
Wildflowers and Winter Weeds, written and illustrated by Lauren Brown, 1997 reissue.