Friday Field Notes: Chinook Winds of Fortune

On my ride into the Montana Natural History Center this morning there was one thing that was impossible not to think about: WIND. Struggling against a current of wind on an icy bike path is no cakewalk. Missoula doesn't get this windy too often, but just a handful of miles across the Continental Divide onto Montana's high plains, it's another story.

Most of Montana is occupied by rolling grasslands, once dominated by bison, pronghorn, and prairie dogs. Beautiful shortgrass prairie stretched from the flanks of the Rockies and moated the island ranges of the central and eastern parts of the state. The rich soils that sustained the plentiful life were also ideally suited for growing crops like wheat and alfalfa and stock grazing. A short time after the advent of white settlers, much of the prairie had been checkered with farms and fences, altering the pristine landscape into an anthropomorphized version of its former self.

Looking out from Square Butte towards the Missouri River Breaks

Weather, however, remains indifferent to our terrestrial tillings, not appearing to care about our comfort or chapped faces.

Wind has played an important role in Montana's history, particularly on the eastern slope of the Rockies. From harnessing wind for energy production, to dispersal of seeds and pollen for various plants, wind, despite its indifference, is critical for life on the prairie.

Chinook winds have certainly made their mark on Montana history. A Chinook wind a is warm, dry air mass that rips down the east slope of high mountains and warms the plains it crosses. Chinooks form from  westerly humid cells of air from the Pacific that dump their moisture on the west sides of mountain ranges (the great and mighty Rockies in our case), then warm adiabatically on their way back down the eastern side. The Chinook winds reach temperatures up to 60 degrees F and tear across that landscape at speeds up to 100 mph, melting and sublimating snow in their wake.

http://www.weatherexplained.com/images/walm_01_img0191.jpg

These winds are most common and severe from Cutbank to Helena, Montana. The high, steep eastern slopes of Glacier and the Bob Marshall and Scapegoat Wildernesses warm more quickly. The greatest temperature change in a 24-hour period in the U.S. was due to a Chinook wind, and occurred in Loma, Montana. The temperature went from -54 to 49 F, a 103-degree change! It is plain to see that ranchers would have relied on these remarkable weather events to make it through the unforgiving winters that punctuate every year in central Montana.

Waiting for a Chinook by Charlie Russell

As I bike back home today against that not-so-warm wind coming out of the mouth of Hellgate Canyon, I'll be dreaming of warm, dry Chinooks on the prairie.

Friday Field Notes: Icy Sentinels: Stalwart Herons in Winter

Riding my bike in the summer along the Clark Fork River sometimes feels like an exhibition of nature. Munching beavers, darting kingfishers, and watchful Osprey are rarely out of sight or unheard. Trout break the surface of the river and grebes and their allies dip to catch a morsel under the cool water. But, as the warm clear mornings start to turn into cold ones and ice forms along the river's bank, only the hardiest animals show themselves.

A watchful eye in winter will turn up some of these unyielding creatures. One not too hard to spot is the Great Blue Heron. I was amazed to see that these large graceful birds were waiting at the edge of the ice, staring motionless into the water, as if mesmerized by the chunks of ice floating by. My thoughts then turned to a poem by renowned poet Mary Oliver--Herons in Winter in the Frozen Marsh.

http://writersalmanac.publicradio.org/index.php?date=2009/12/27

This poem captured much of the feeling I experience while watching these icy sentinels.

If you look carefully at some places on the river ice you can see their "pitchfork" footprints along the water's edge. You may be wondering how the herons can stand the cold with their long scaly legs in the frigid water or on the ice, and the answer is that they are equipped with a special routing of blood vessels in which the vessel carrying blood out to the leg lies directly against the vessel carrying blood back in. This is called "counter-current heat exchange," and is an adaptation used by many organisms across the globe. The blood going into the legs warms up the blood coming back into the body, keeping the heron's body temperature at a remarkable 103 to 106 degrees Fahrenheit (keep in mind that the average human body temperature is 98-99 degrees Fahrenheit). This allows them to stand at or in the water's edge and watch for fish and crustaceans for long periods of time.

As for me, I feel fortunate that I don't have to stand barefoot in the cold river to catch a bite to eat. I'm content just watching the pros at work.

So next time you find yourself along the river, make sure to scan for herons, motionless and cold, looking for lunch.

http://www.words4it.com/?tag=footprint

Friday Field Notes: Nature Journaling on a Brisk December Day

December 1, 2013

Norway Maple 

Latin name: Acer platanoides

The Norway Maple originates from Europe and Western Asia and was introduced the the United States as an ornamental tree. The deciduous tree offers shade in the spring and summer and it is adapted to survive in adverse conditions, typical of Montana winters. It is believed that the first Norway Maples were brought to Missoula by Frank Worden, the founder of Missoula. Although a beautiful tree, the Norway Maple, with its dense canopies of foliage and allelopathic properties (a process in which its roots release a toxin into the ground) are known to displace native plant species. 

Friday Field Notes: What's Blooming in Missoula?

By now, you must certainly feel like we've turned the corner here in western Montana and are well on our way to Spring. Sure, we've seen this before. Only a few weeks ago, temperatures were peaking in the 60s, and what did Mother Nature serve us up next? A week of rain and snow! But the weather these past few days, along with the forecast for highs in the 70s this weekend, has me convinced that Spring is here to stay. There's something else that has tipped me off, too . . . wildflowers!

For the past few weeks, since the very first buttercups defiantly sprung up from the ground, things have been slowly - but surely - progressing. Now, there are number of different wildflowers out and about that you should look for on your next hike. Here's a collection of what is in bloom around Missoula:

Shooting Stars on Waterworks Hill

Waterworks Hill:
On the lower slopes of Waterworks Hill, Arrow-leaf Balsamroot is beginning to dominate the south-facing fields, with some Biscuitroot and Larkspur joining the burst of color. Higher up the trail, Shooting stars and Yellowbells are abundant, while a few hearty Lupine are starting to flower. On the upper, wind-exposed ridge, Missoula White Phlox and Rocky Mountain Douglasia are abundant. There are also countless basal leaves of Bitterroots, but no flowers just yet. Below in Cherry Gulch, there are a few Woodland Stars to be found.

Mount Jumbo:
During a recent trail run along the lower slopes of Mount Jumbo, the most abundant flower appeared to be Buttercups. It was apparent that Yellowbells and Shooting Stars were already on their way out for the season, as the few that were found looked pretty worn. The next wave of flowers set to take over are Biscuitroot, Lupine, Arrow-leaf Balsamroot, and Larkspur, though only a handful of plants were actually in bloom. To my surprise, I found a number of Oregon Grape plants already flowering.

Arrow-leaf Balsamroot on Waterworks Hill

Rattlesnake Creek:
Along Rattlesnake Creek, the towering Ponderosa Pines have provided enough shade to slow Spring down quite a bit. The only flowers to be found in bloom were Buttercups. On some of the hills above the creek, a few Glacier Lilies provided a welcome surprise. Other than that, things appear to be a few weeks behind where they were last year. This may not really be related to wildflowers, but I'm sad to report that I have yet to find morel mushrooms in the areas I discovered them last year. Hopefully, the warm weather of late will be more conducive to wild mushroom foraging!

Rocky Mountain Douglasia on Waterworks Hill.

Oh, and since I've already strayed away from wildflowers with my mushroom rant, here's a killdeer nest:

Killdeer Nest in the Upper Rattlesnake.

We would love to hear about your wildflower observations or any other Spring happenings you've come across in the comments!

Friday Field Notes: Bluebird Days

Lately, it seems as if the sky is blue more often than not. There is nothing quite like waking up to a brisk, bluebird day in the spring in Montana. The growing strength of the sunshine warms the skin and raises hope that summer is not far away. But it isn't just the sun that illuminates the landscape this time of year.

On a recent outing up Missoula's Waterworks Hill, I heard a soft, chattery whistle sound. Initially, I was caught off-guard, but rather quickly it hit me: Mountain Bluebirds. I panned around, searching for the magnificent cerulean birds, and sure enough, there they were perched on a power line right above me. I don't know why I was so surprised to see them; the sweeping grasslands are perfect bluebird habitat that the birds return to every year. Perhaps it was simply the abruptness with which they arrived. The previous day, there were no bluebirds to be found. Now, there were dozens.

A male Mountain Bluebird with his lunch.

Mountain Bluebirds (Sialia currocoides) are a small member of the thrush family, which includes common birds like the American Robbin, Hermit Thrush, Townsend's Solitaire, and other bluebirds. While common throughout Montana and most of the interior West in the spring and summer, Mountain Bluebirds move as far south as Central America to winter. Rather interestingly, Mountain Bluebirds can tolerate colder habitats than other bluebirds, and some migrate westward to the Sierras for the winter. I suppose they must be pretty hearty, as their early return to the Northern Rockies inevitably results in them being forced to weather a handful of spring snowstorms.

Unlike many bird species, Mountain Bluebirds have largely benefited from human settlement and activity in the West. The clearing of previously forested lands and the expansion of agricultural development has opened up millions of acres of new bluebird habitat. They also have been helped by our affinity for them - there must be hundreds of thousands of "bluebird boxes" scattered across the western United States.

A female Mountain Bluebird hovers while searching for insects.

Like most thrushes, Mountain Bluebirds feed primarily on insects, although their diet is supplemented throughout the year with small fruits and seeds. What sets this particular bird apart from its close relatives, however, is the way in which they sometimes acquire their food. Mountain Bluebirds can often be seen hovering in place, not unlike American Kestrels, as they scan the ground for insects. If prey is found, they quickly swoop down to the ground like a raptor pouncing on a small rodent. It is a spectacular sight to behold, made all the wilder and more intense by the bird's stunning colors.

Over the coming days and weeks, more and more of these magnificent birds are sure to arrive. Their presence on Waterworks Hill and other grassy fields across Montana is likely to be accompanied by that of a close rival, the Western Bluebird. As mating season takes off and the struggle to establish a territory reaches fever pitch, Mountain Bluebirds will clash with Westerns as well as members of their own species over nesting boxes and territories. It will be a spectacle, no doubt. I, for one, will be watching eagerly.

Have you seen any bluebirds yet this spring? Do your bluebird boxes have new residents? Be sure to let us know in the comments!

Friday Field Notes

Have you been wondering what’s going on around Missoula? Well, here’s a quick update on some natural history events occurring right in front of our eyes:

Fall Foliage

Although the gorgeous weather of late would have us believe that it’s still summer in western Montana, there are some signs that fall is on its way. Nighttime temperatures are dropping, the birds are stirring, and perhaps most noticeably, the leaves are beginning to turn. In just a few weeks, the Quaking Aspen and Western Larch trees that dot the mountainsides will shine gold, while the various maple trees found around town will fill the streets with shades of red and orange. Already, the larches have begun to turn a lighter green, indicating that it is only a matter of time before fall arrives.

Western Larch paint the hillsides gold

It is these vibrant colors and cooler temperatures that make fall one of the most pleasant times of the year in Montana. Indeed, fall gives us all a perfect excuse to get outside and put our naturalist skills to use.

Looking for ways to enjoy the turning of the seasons? Here’s some ideas:

•         Take a walk through Greenough Park. The towering cottonwoods and other deciduous trees that line Rattlesnake Creek will be putting on a show.
•         Go for a hike in the Rattlesnake National Recreation Area. Many trails in the Sawmill Gulch area climb high onto ridges that provide great views of the larch-covered hillsides.
•         Up for a challenge? Climb the steep slopes above the “M” to the top of Mount Sentinel for great views of fall foliage throughout the Missoula area!

Feathered Flyby

Like the turning of the leaves, the annual migration of birds from their summer breeding range to winter habitat is imminent! Birds are already exhibiting pre-migration behaviors indicative of this great journey. Various species of sparrows, warblers, and other woodland songbirds have gathered into mixed-species flocks, which provide members of the group with greater protection and increased feeding efficiency. Additionally, large groups of ducks and other waterfowl can be seen congregating on lakes and wetlands. Because of this, fall is an incredible time to go birding. The many wildlife refuges found in the region, particularly in the Mission and Bitterroot valleys, provide countless opportunities to observe migratory birds.

 Migration isn’t all about the movement of vast flocks of birds from northern latitudes to warmer climates, however. For many species of birds found in western Montana, migration consists of simply moving down in elevation - rather than in latitude – to escape the harsh conditions of winter. Many of the birds that summer in the region, often nesting high up in the mountains, winter low in valleys and in our backyards! As a result, the movement of birds to lower elevations during fall and winter presents a great opportunity to see rare and unique birds that are secretive and elusive the rest of the year.

Numerous species of finches, including Pine Grosbeaks, Cassin’s Finches, and the stunningly colored Evening Grosbeak, become common sights at backyard bird feeders. In addition, many corvids - such as Steller’s Jays, Gray Jays, and Clark’s Nutcrackers – move to lower elevations where food is more readily available. In the coming weeks, listen for unusual calls or sounds; it could be one of these birds settling in to the valley for winter!

A flock of Evening Grosbeaks invades a Missoula backyard, 2010. 

 So Missoulians, get ready for the many wonderful changes fall brings to our home!

Discover ways to involve yourself with MNHC this Fall!

photo by Merle Ann Loman

Visiting Naturalist Program

We're kicking off the program with introducing 3rd-grade students to bird beaks and feet and 4th- and 5th-grade students to the idea of naturalist as scientist, artist, and writer.  Staff naturalists visit the classrooms once per month throughout the school year, and lead activities that incorporate creativity with a scientific study of the natural world.  Volunteers are always needed (and appreciated) to help assist with classroom activities. 

miniNaturalist Program
Youngsters can come and discover the natural world all year round with our miniNaturalist program.  As brand-new naturalists, kids engage in nature with a series of sensory, imaginative and (sometimes) musical activities.  Last week, we talked about squirrels--what they eat, where they live and who might eat them.  Our miniNaturalists taste-tested seeds, learned about squirrel habitats and became a squirrel in their own Squirrel Play Production. The miniNaturalist Program is offered every first and third Thursday at MNHC from 10 a.m. to 11 a.m.  Admission is $3/non-member and $1/member.   

A Forest for Every Classroom
Don't worry, teachers, we won't let the kids have all the fun.  MNHC offers teachers a unique opportunity to learn about place-based education through seminars and workshops.  In the past, teachers have traveled to various places around western Montana, including Tarkio, the Blackfoot Valley, Seeley Lake, and the Bitterroot Valley, and met with various scientists, ecologists, forest service specialists, naturalists, ranchers, and conservationists.  This year-long program has two- three-day workshops in every season, which are designed to inform educators about what is going on in Montana's natural environment and how they can incorporate place-based education within their own curriculum. Educators are provided with supplemental course materials which offer a range of activities that can be used to teach children about anything from the wildlife diversity to patterns of change within the environment. We are currently recruiting interested educators  to be a part of our new workshop session which will begin in April 2013.

Fall Celebration and Auction
Celebrate with us on October 5 at the DoubleTree Hotel starting at 5 p.m.  There will be a silent and live auction with items graciously donated from artists, restaurants, designers, jewelry makers, and businesses throughout Montana.  Don't worry if you get tired from all that auction bidding, because the dinner menu includes salad, your choice of entree and a cookie sundae with Big Dipper Ice Cream.  If you're interested in attending we've made it easy!  Log onto our website at http://www.montananaturalist.org/ and follow the link to register and reserve your spot.

Interested in volunteering, learning about our programs or checking to see what's new?
Please contact MNHC Tuesday-Friday 12-5 at 406.327.0405

Blue Mountain Recreation Area

Last week in Missoula was filled with reasonable temps and lots of sunshine with, so I decided to seize the last nice day of fall and go to Blue Mountain for a day hike. Looking back over the wind, snow, sleet, and rain from the past week, it shows how fast seasons change here in Montana. 

Despite the temperatures in the mid-40s the sunshine really made this hike special - the view across the Missoula Valley was crystal clear. The trails were rather busy due in some part due to Veterans Day, although I think the last chance for a dry sunny day played a big part in the number of Missoulians out and about. Once I trekked further in, the crowds dissipated, bird songs audibly grew in number, and the peacefulness of the forest emerged. 

The few times I tried to catch a family of chirping birds in my view finder, the small birds kept hopping and flying away. I put away my camera and decided to just watch and listen quietly; my mental note is just as vivid in my senses as a photograph in my camera. Once satisfied with watching the fleeting birds, I kept on the path and saw a few folks in bright vests in a field off in the distance. They were working on some sort of explosives project, of which I am not sure, but it did seem strange that in the midst this beautiful public space. Later down the trail a few signs directed me to stay on the path in the marked area as there were unexploded materials in the field. This made me a little uneasy, even though I was not straying from the path, so I changed directions at the next path I found. 

I headed down closer to the river and through a more densely wooded terrain. A crow was calling loudly and it felt as if he were following my path by hopping from tree to tree as I moved forward. Not long after, the crow swooped out of the tree overhead and made a complete circle over my location of the path; I took this as a good omen for my walk. 

Not long after the crow incident, I turned back toward the parking area. The walk lasted for well over an hour, but could have easily continued for longer given time. There are plenty of trails to explore, specimens to examine, and sights to take in. 

To find Blue Mountain, head south from Missoula on Highway 93 towards Hamilton. Not long after crossing the river, there is a light at the intersection of hwy. 93 and Blue Mountain Rd., where you will take a right hand turn. Follow Blue Mountain road for a couple of minutes and after a tight turn left, you will see a parking area straight ahead and slightly to the left. Once you park your car there are many trails to choose from!

To find out more information on the recreation area at Blue Mountain please visit the All Missoula website. 

And, for more information on bird species and field notes from Blue Mountain please visit the Montana Birding and Nature Trail site.